|Place of Business||Farmington Hills, MI 48331, US|
|Model||1 Series M , 135i , 335i , 335i xDrive , 335is , 335xi , 535i , 535i xDrive , 535xi , 740i , 740Li , X6 , Z4|
|Item model number||0 242 140 507|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|OEM part number||12120037244|
6 Piece Set of Bosch OEM Spark Plug # 0242140507 / ZGR6STE2 - BMW # 12120037244
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- *** IMPORTANT*** TO VERIFY FITMENT. PLEASE CONTACT US AND PROVIDE THE COMPLETE VIN NUMBER OF YOUR CAR. INCLUDING / YEAR / MAKE / MODEL. WE WILL DOUBLE CHECK FITMENT BEFORE THE ITEM SHIPS.
- PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE ORDERING THE CORRECT PARTS FOR YOUR VEHICLE. IF YOU DON'T KNOW OR NOT SURE PLEASE CONTACT US. WE WILL REPLY YOU WITHIN 24 HOURS.
BMW Spark Plugs Plug Set High Power Super Plus Bosch OEM ZGRTE2/37244 (6pcs) => 2011 1 Series M / 2008 - 2010 535i , 135i / 2007 - 2011 335i / 2009 - 2011 335i xDrive / 2011 - 2013 335is / 2007 2008 335xi / 2009 2010 535i xDrive / 2008 535xi / 2011 2012 740Li , 740i / 2008 - 2011 X6 / 2009 2011 - 2014 Z4
Top reviews from Canada
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*misfires after a few months of use looking for a refund or exchange
Top reviews from other countries
When replacing plugs there is debate over whether to use anti-seize compound. I like the idea of using anti-seize, but many people who use it probably don’t realize that it renders the torque specification entirely moot. The reason is that there is less friction in the threads, which means a greatly reduced torque reading relative to a given amount of force compressing the little metal gasket on the spark plug. Or, for a given amount of torque, the force compressing the metal gasket will be substantially greater than it is supposed to be. Thus, when using anti-seize, you have to ignore the torque specification and simply thread the plug in by hand until it stops firm, then put a socket and ratchet on it and turn it an additional 60 to 90 degrees. The package the plugs came in had a little drawing that showed 90 degrees, along with the torque spec. But I found that it took way too much force to turn them 90 degrees, and given that I was using anti-seize, I would say that 60 degrees might be enough, and that 75 degrees is certainly enough to get a tight seal. When applying the anti-seize, do it the night before, with good indoor light, and take your time. I used a toothbrush, not an old one but one from the collection of toothbrushes that the dentist gives away. I applied a small dab of anti-seize on the threads near the firing tip of the plug, and worked it in gently with the brush, starting near the firing tip and working back toward the other end. If the optimal amount of anti-seize is used, you’ll run out of anti-seize before reaching the gasket, and will have to work some more of it onto the brush in order to coat the threads fully to the gasket. But be very careful not to get any on the gasket, because you need a good electrical contact between the gasket and the cylinder head. If you do it this way, you will not have any problems at all, and you’ll have the peace of mind of knowing that when it comes time to change the plugs again, the old plugs will come out effortlessly. One tip about the coils: before you attach the wiring harness connector, flip the pivoting latch mechanism down so that you can give the coils a good firm press, to insure that they are pressed fully onto the spark plugs.
Plugs arrived pre-gapped and had a cardboard piece inserted in them to protect the pre-gap fitment. I checked them just in case and all were just fine.
I used a touch of anti-seize and dilectric grease on the base of the coil boot. I'm not sure either was necessary but you can never be too sure,
ANYWAYS, this is the BEST AND LOWEST price you can get on OEM plugs.